You can use either faced or unfaced batting for putting between the roof rafters of completed attic areas. When employing paper or plastic batting insulation, the moisture barrier should face outward toward the attic area. This will prevent any water that does get into the insulation from causing any mold growth.
The choice between faced and unfaced is up to you. It depends on how much work you want to do up there yourself. If you plan to never enter the attic again then felt may be a good choice because it's fire resistant and doesn't emit noxious gases if burned. On the other hand, if you plan to occasionally go into your attic then faced may be better because it's easier to work with.
Faced insulation consists of fiberglass, wood pulp, cotton, or hemp fibers that are bonded together with resin or oil. The facing is usually about 1/8 inch thick and is sold in sheets that are 4 feet by 8 feet or larger. You need to cut away any damaged or rotten sections of the roof before installing the insulation so it fits properly. Then once everything is dry, attach the insulation to the joists with staples or nail it in place.
Unfaced insulation consists of cellulose fibers that have been spun into yarn, which is then woven into strips or batts.
According to ENERGY STAR (r), new insulation can be installed over existing insulation "unless it is moist." Moisture can be trapped by a vapor retarder placed on top of or between layers of insulation. Any existing batt or roll insulation in the attic should be facing the drywall floor or have no facing at all. If it does, then some form of vapor barrier must be put over it before adding more insulation.
The best time to insulate your home is before you buy it. That way you can pick out which options will be most effective in keeping heat and cold out. And because the science and technology change every year, looking at past homes that were insulated can also help you decide what type of insulation will work best for your home now.
Wrapping fiberglass batts or rolls around the exterior walls and ceilings of your home is one of the easiest ways to add insulation. It's called "whole house" insulation because it covers all parts of the house, not just one room like regular insulation.
The advantage to whole house insulation is that it reduces the need for additional wall or ceiling panels. This can save money in the long run if you ever want to change anything about the look of your home. Disadvantage: Whole house insulation takes up more space when you move it into place, so you might need to make other adjustments to other parts of your home to keep the overall footprint small.
Because the attic should be vented and the rafter insulation is between two unheated regions, insulating between rafters is pointless. Moisture buildup in the attic is a problem because it can condense into water, which can lead to mold growth. That may be avoided with proper ventilation through soffit vents and a ridge vent. But first make sure that the roof is able to support the additional weight of an insulated rick.
The best way to avoid having to deal with this issue is to have your roof inspected by a professional company before you install any new or modified systems above it. They will be able to tell you if there are any problems with its stability that would prevent you from doing what you want with it.
If you do choose to go ahead with insulating between rafters, look for a manufacturer who uses high-quality materials that will last through many years of use without deteriorating too much to require replacement. The type of material you select should be based on how much heat it will need to retain versus how much moisture resistance it needs to withstand heavy rain and snow loads while keeping out humidity and other elements that could cause damage or deterioration.
Attics are very difficult spaces to work in, so make sure that any contractor you hire has experience with this type of project. If they don't, find someone else! This job isn't suitable for beginners who might end up causing more problems than it solves.
Loft insulation is a material barrier installed within your roof area. Insulation between the joists retains warmth in your living area below while creating a frigid loft, but insulation between the rafters preserves warmth in the roof space as well. Lowering heating expenditures is another advantage of roof insulation. Lofts also act as a storage facility for this type of insulation.
Loft insulation can be either fiberglass or cellulose. Cellulose is the term used for natural materials such as cotton or wood pulp that have been processed into fibers. Fiberglass is manufactured from glass filaments and is the most common type of insulation. It's flexible and can be formed into any shape.
Fiberglass insulation is lightweight and does not compress; therefore, it provides continuous insulation over an entire room or area. Cellulose insulation is heavier than fiberglass insulation and will not stretch as much; however, it does not expand when wet like fiberglass insulation will. This means that if you have to remove it for some reason, it can be re-used.
Loose-fill insulation consists of small particles that can be blown into open spaces between wall and floor boards or sprayed into the air voids above door and window frames. The particles attach themselves to whatever surface they touch (wallboard, plaster, paint) forming a dense mass that prevents heat transfer through these openings.