That is, it can be run within a wall if you want/need to. This implies that the cable may be passed through your wall without being harmed. Some individuals run all of their wires through the wall to hide them. Other people might just need to run one or two cables through the wall.
The best way to understand what makes a wire in-wall rated is to look at the labeling on the back of the box. If the rating shows "KWN" then there will be no problem running this cable within the walls. If the rating shows "CWC" then these cables should not be run within the walls unless the work has been done by a professional electrician.
In addition, if the cable has an insulation thickness of only 0.5mm or less, then it's considered a thin-walled cable. These can be run within the walls with no additional concerns.
Finally, if the cable is listed as "RMC" then it is recommended for outdoor use only. It should never be run within a wall because it will not be able to withstand weather conditions.
The important thing to remember here is that only use cables with the correct ratings for the applications you plan to use them for. Otherwise, you could end up with a dangerous situation later on.
As a result, if a cable is certified for in-wall use, it signifies that it may be securely routed through studs, etc., within a wall or ceiling across a room. With such a short wire, this certainly doesn't make much sense, but you should be able to accomplish it securely. The problem is that most standard cable types are not designed to handle this sort of use. Over time, they can become damaged, which can lead to problems with voltage leakage and other issues.
In order to make sure that you don't damage these cables when installing things like lights and appliances, most major manufacturers will only authorize certain types of cables for in-wall use. These cables are usually labeled as such, so if you're not sure about any particular type of cable, check its certification label before you install it.
Not all cables are created equal, and some types are definitely better suited for in-wall use than others. For example: "RJ45" cables can be found for home networking purposes; these cables are very flexible and can be bent without causing breaks. On the other hand, "THHN" (or "TRNS") cables are designed to be rigid and can only be routed inside walls during construction or remodeling projects. They're not suitable for regular use because they might cause damage to insulation over time.
Electrical wires should not be located beyond these zones, but they are common in many older (and some modern) buildings, so keep this in mind if you are chasing out bits of a wall or chopping pieces out. The good news is that most modern wiring uses shielded cable for all voltage-carrying parts of the circuit, which prevents any other objects being damaged by electricity.
If you are working on an existing circuit, first check with an electrician to make sure that none of the circuits are overloaded before making any changes. If everything is fine and dandy, then go ahead and use metal detectors to look for damage to the wire itself or anything else inside the wall. If there are no problems, then feel free to cut into the wall without worrying about any related hazards.
However, if you do find any wires inside the wall, don't pull them out! That could cause damage further down the line. Instead, mark their locations carefully so you can find them again later if needed.
Also, when cutting into drywall, take care not to apply too much force over small areas of the wall. This can lead to craters forming in your surface, which may appear empty but could actually contain water that can seep into the room if the hole is not properly sealed.
Is it necessary to capping cables? You must mechanically safeguard a cable as needed. Capping is typical procedure to protect the cable from being nicked by the plasterer's trowel, as you said, and it is also pretty beneficial in keeping the wire from touching the wall to comply with method "C." It may be done at any time during the construction process; however, it is best to do it before the wall covering is applied so that it can be incorporated into the design of the room.
If you plan to paint or stain the wall, then you should cap the cable first because they no longer want it to touch the wall. This is important if you want to avoid leaving marks on the wood paneling for example.
Cabling in walls is required by law in some states, usually where there is a risk of electrical hazard such as near water sources or appliances. In other words, if you aren't sure whether or not your state requires it, then assume it does. It's better to be safe than sorry!
LEVELS OF INSULATION Cable insulation is intended to resist the voltage stresses that a cable may encounter over the course of its estimated lifetime. Within a single voltage rating, an insulation level defines several insulation thicknesses. The most prevalent amounts are 100 and 133 percent. For example, an insulated cable with an overall voltage rating of 120/240 volts would have an inner metal sheath rated at 60 volts and an outer covering rated at 80 volts. This means that the cable is designed to carry a maximum of 180 volts - 20 volts above the inner metal sheath rating and 160 volts below it. Insulation levels are usually indicated by the words "100" or "133" printed in small letters on the cable's packaging.
The voltage rating of cable components such as connectors, fuse boxes, and tap posts should be equal to or greater than the incoming line voltage. Otherwise, the component user will be at risk of receiving a shock if contact is made with another part of the system having a lower voltage rating.
For example, if the tap post inside a furnace controls electricity from a single feed from the street main, then the tap post voltage should also be 120 or 240 volts depending on the system configuration. If the tap post can control electricity from both the street main and a separate panel-mounted supply, then each panel should have its own tap post with matching voltage ratings.